Christmas Hazards For Pets

‘Tis the season to be jolly’ -- and to keep our pets safe over the holidays.  There are many surprising hazards in the home now, such as certain foods, Christmas trees and decorations, and even visitors.  Here are few tips to keep your pet safe.

Holiday foods are the biggest hazard for our beloved pets.  Most are rich in fat, which can cause severe intestinal upset, vomiting, and diarrhoea.  Fat-rich foods can also cause life-threatening inflammation of the pancreas.  Chocolate and alcoholic beverages are severely toxic to dogs and cats.  Symptoms can range from vomiting and diarrhoea to muscle tremors, unconsciousness, and death.  It is vital to tell family members and guests not to give your pets anything from the table before, during, or after dinner!

Christmas trees present dangers too. They are tempting objects for cats to climb, and their decorations attract both dogs and cats.  Trees can be knocked over easily by pets, so make sure your tree is secure.  Decorations can be lethal because cats will play with and eat string-like decorations, which can cause intestinal blockage.  Dogs may mistake glass balls for playthings and chomp down on them, cutting their mouth and digestive tract.  Cords from lights are also tempting objects to chew.  This can cause electric shock, burns to the mouth and tongue, and most importantly, fires.  Dogs may also decide to unwrap and chew presents under the tree. And dogs that eat real or fake Christmas trees can get stomach upset and intestinal blockage.  Prevent unwanted surprises -- keep your pets away from the Christmas tree, lights, and presents. 

Other holiday plants can also be toxic to dogs and cats.  If your pet chews on the leaves of poinsettia or mistletoe, it may start to drool or have mouth pain. In severe cases, vomiting and even death can result.

Prepare for the arrival of guests by setting aside a room for your pet to prevent it from getting stressed by all the activity or running out an open door.  When things have settled down, you can then bring your pet out to introduce it to everyone. 

If you follow these simple tips, everyone can have a safe and happy holiday.  Nevertheless, have your vet’s number near the phone in case of an emergency.

Keeping Your Pets Safe For Halloween

Halloween is a scary time for pets. They can get nervous when people in costumes come to the door to trick-or-treat, and they can become terrified when fireworks go off.  Here are a few tips for a happier Halloween with your pets.

Keep animals (dogs and cats) indoors for a few weeks before and after Halloween to shield them from fireworks, especially at night.  Their hearing is more sensitive than ours, so what might sound loud to you, sounds deafening to them.

Some dogs and cats will try to scratch or chew their way out of the house to escape loud noises.  Keep sensitive pets in the centre of the house. Play music with a good beat at a moderate volume.  Feed a large carbohydrate meal (pasta, bread, or rice) about an hour before sundown because carbohydrates will make your pet sleepy.  You can also give your dog a toy to keep it occupied.

There are many items available to help calm nervous pets around Halloween time.  These products can also be used for other stressful situations, such as moving, travelling, boarding, or a new addition to the household.  Most of these products are available through your veterinary surgeon.  There are now special calming food and herbal preparation savailable for both dogs and cats to cause relaxation.  There are pheromone impregnated collars, sprays and diffusers are available to help calm nervous pets.  CDs are available to help animals overcome sound phobias, but these must be used for a few months to condition the dog.  A new product on the market for anxiety and sound phobias is the Thundershirt.  These shirts exert constant, gentle pressure on the dog, causing relaxation.  I have tried many of these products on my own dogs, and they do work.

On Halloween night, keep your dog away from the front door.  Dogs get agitated by strangers coming and going, and may be inclined to bite. And don’t give your dog any Halloween candy because chocolate is toxic to dogs and cats and can make them very sick.

Make sure that your dog or cat has a collar with a legible ID tag in case it does run away.  You can also have your pet microchipped, which is particularly useful if the collar comes off.  If your pet is already microchipped, please make sure that your contact details are correct.  Animal shelters and veterinary surgeons are inundated with phone calls about pets missing around Halloween. Unfortunately, due to lack of identification, people aren’t always reunited with their beloved pets. So be prepared!

Cats should be kept indoors from now until a week after Halloween.  There are many cruetly cases involving cats around Halloween time.

Halloween decorations are fun for kids to look at, but can be lethal to our pets.  Cats and dogs can ingest fake cobwebs and other Halloween decorations, causing life-threatening intestinal blockages.  Keep carved pumpkins with lit candles out of reach because our four-footed companions can be knock them over and start fires.

Have a happy and safe Halloween with your pets.  If you are dressing up your dog for Halloween, please ensure that the costume is lose fitting and that their vision is not obstructed.  If your dog is too distressed by the costume, then remove it.

Feline Leukaemia Virus

We have been seeing an increasing number of cats with Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV). 

Feline leukemia virus infection is responsible for more deaths among cats than any other infectious disease. The virus affects domestic cats and occurs in some wild felines as well.  A cat can be infected with the virus for years before it starts to show any signs of illness.

There are three main types of feline leukemia virus.  A cat can be infected with one, two, or all three types.  The most predominant type causes a severe weakening of the immune system.  The second most common type causes tumors and abnormal tissue growth.  The least common form causes severe anaemia.  FeLV can also cause reproductive, gastrointesintal, or neurological problems.  The signs of infection are variable because FeLV affects many body systems.  However, cats will usually lose their appetite, lose weight, and become weak.

FeLV is spread from cat to cat in saliva and other secretions, such as tears, urine, and faeces.  It can also be passed from a pregnant female to the unborn kittens.  The most common modes of transmission are through bites, nose-to-nose contact, mutual grooming, and shared dishes.  After the initial infection, the virus replicates in the tonsils and lymph nodes in the head region. It spreads via the bloodstream to other parts of the body, especially the lymph nodes, bone marrow, and intestinal tissue, where it continues to replicate.  The virus usually shows up in the blood 2 to 4 weeks after the initial infection. 

FeLV infection is diagnosed by a simple blood test that can be performed by your veterinary surgeon.

How can you prevent your cat from getting FeLV?  There is a vaccine available that can be given at the same time as your cat’s yearly cat flu and enteritis injection.  Your cat should be tested for FeLV first before the vaccine is given for the first time.  Also, you should limit exposure to feral cats by keeping your cat indoors.

Obesity

OBESITY

It is becoming more common to see obese dogs.  As in people, animals carrying extra weight put stress on the organs in the body.  This can lead to disease and sometimes death.  The health risks of overweight dogs are serious, and it is important for pet owners to be aware of them.

Approximately one quarter of overweight dogs develop serous joint problems.  When joints carry excessive weight, they can become damaged.  This leads to arthritis, which is a very painful condition, and is not reversible.  It is, however, treatable.  The increased load on joints of obese pets also puts pressure on the ligaments, and can cause them to rupture.  A common injury encountered in obese, large breed dogs is a rupture of the ligaments in the knee.  This requires surgery to repair it.  Small, obese dogs, such as dachshunds, tend to develop back problems.

Similar to people, overweight animals are prone to heart disease and increased blood pressure.  This is due to an increase in workload by the heart to pump additional blood to the excess tissues. 

In overweight animals, the lungs can not function properly.  The additional fat in the chest and abdomen restricts the expansion of the lungs.  This results in your dog becoming breathless very easily.

Obesity affects all of the organ systems in the body.  Diabetes can develop.  This will require a life-time of insulin injections and special diets.  The liver function decreases because it gets filled with fat. 

Other effects of obesity are a decrease in stamina, heat intolerance, decreased immunity, skin and coat problems, reproductive problems, digestive problems, and an increased risk of cancer.

Some diseases, such as Cushing’s disease (excess cortisol production) and Hypothyroidism (low thyroid hormone) cause dogs to become obese.  These are diagnosed with blood tests.  Once the underlying illness is treated, the dog will go back to their normal weight.

So how can you tell if your pet is overweight?  How can you help your dog to shed those extra pounds?
The ideal body condition for a dog is when the ribs have a thin layer of fat over them.  They are easily felt, but not seen.  The waist and belly are discernable without being prominent.  An overweight dog has increased amount of fat over the rib cage so that it is difficult or impossible to feel the ribs.  You won’t be able to see the waist.  In morbidly obese animals, the belly will be protruding, and there may be at rolls visible around the tail base and neck.
If you feel that your dog is overweight, then you should bring your dog down to your veterinary surgeon for a physical examination, a weight check, and possibly a prescription weight loss diet.  You can also monitor weight-loss by measuring the circumference of the dog behind the ribs.
Decrease snacking!  As with people, extra snacks during the day can increase weight.  Do not give in to begging and the sad eyes!  All commercial brands of dog food have a weight chart on the side of the bag, which you should use as a guideline for daily feeding.  If you measure out the daily amount, put aside a few nuts and use those as treats.  You can also cut back on the amount of food that you are feeding.
Exercise is an important part of any weight-loss regime.  Take your dog out for daily walks, not a 2 hour run once a week.  Swimming and fetching are also good ways to get your pet to be more active. 
Feed lower calorie meat-based, dry dog food.  Stay away from tinned food!  These contain a lot of sugar and empty calories.  The fat content of dry food should range from 12-16 percent.  This value may be lower in some of the veterinary prescription diets.
Certain dog breeds, such as Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Beagles, Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, and Spaniels, are prone to becoming obese.  Keep this in mind if you have one of these breeds.  Make sure that your pet receives enough exercise to work off its daily ration so that it doesn’t get too fat.

As you can see, a pudgy pet is not a healthy pet!  Obesity will affect your dogs’ quality of life shorten its life-span.  If you feel that you pet is overweight, contact your veterinary surgeon to discuss a proper weight loss program before it is too late!

Safe gardening with your pets

I have been spending a lot of time outside in the garden with my dogs and cat trying 'help' me plant things. The cat usually just lies in the way, but the dogs have fun taking and chewing the plastic flower pots and sticking their noses into everything.  Gardening can be enjoyable for you and your pets, but there are some hazards to be aware of.

Heat stroke

The warm, sunny weather brings everyone outside.  When I am gardening, it is usually during the warmest part of the day.  The dogs like to follow me around and lie next to me in the sun.  If it is too hot outside, I put them in the house to keep cool.   I also make sure that their water dishes are full.  I also put ice cubes in the water, which they like to take out of the dish and chew.  Dogs are unable to sweat to cool themselves down, so they pant.  If they are outside in direct sunlight on hot days, they can get heat stroke.  Animals can also get sunburn.  White parts of cats and short-coated dogs can get burned, so if you are bringing your pets outside, put sunscreen on the white areas, such as ear tips and top of nose.

Plant toxicity

Many plants toxic to dogs and cats are in our gardens.  Leaves, berries, bulbs, bark, sap, roots, and seeds can all be potentially fatal to pets.  The ASPVA has posted a comprehensive list of toxic (and non-toxic) plants and trees on its website (http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/).  Symptoms of plant toxicity range from drooling, blisters on the tongue and mouth, swelling of the face, rashes, vomiting, diarrhoea, depression or excitement, to kidney failure, seizures, coma, and death.

Pest Control


I seem to be waging a constant battle against slugs and insects.  Slug pellets and insecticides are lethal to pets and wildlife.  If ingested, slug pellets and insectides can cause drooling, vomiting, diarrhoea, nervousness, twitching, seizures, coma, and death.  Avoid using any chemicals for pest control -- use organic methods instead.  To control slugs, keep a tidy garden by removing all dead plant matter and eliminating dark, cool places for slugs to lay eggs and hide.  You can also place crushed egg shells, diatomaceous earth, or wood ashes around flower beds.  And don't forget your potted plants -- place copper tape on them to repel slugs. If you're an early riser, like me, you can go out and pick slugs and snails off your plants and put them in a jar with soapy water to kill them.  Beer traps are great for attracting and killing slugs, but you have to  be vigilant about cleaning and filling them.  Attracting birds and hedgehogs to your garden will also help with slug and insect control.

There are many natural ways to kill insects such as aphids, caterpillars, beetles, and ants.  You can make sprays of diluted soap, garlic, cayenne pepper, or vinegar. You can also place coffee grounds in flower beds.  Even with these natural methods, you have to be careful with your pets because garlic and coffee are toxic. Monitor them when they are in the garden.

Weed Control


I think I spend a majority of my time weeding my garden.  I never use commercial weed killers  because they are toxic to pets.  Symptoms of toxicity include salivation, vomiting, diarrhoea, kidney failure, breathing difficulty, and death.  There are many ways to get rid of weeds aside from pulling them out.  Pouring boiling water on weeds will kill them instantly.  Be careful not to pour it on your plants, pets, or yourself!  You can also spray vinegar on weeds, but you may have to apply it a few times to get rid of really stubborn ones. Salt can control weeds on large areas such as brick paths or patios.  You can make a spray using all three ingredients and apply it to the base of the weed with a baster.  Add some liquid soap to your mixture to help it to stick.

Be aware that even if you haven't used any insecticides, slug bait, weed killer, or fertilizer, your neighbors might.  Keep your pets out of other people's gardens to avoid contact with these products.  Your dog or cat can walk through a treated area and get the substance on their paws.  They may lick it off and get very sick.

Fertilizers


Along with the other products that I have mentioned, commercial fertilizers are toxic to pets.  There are many ways to feed your plants naturally.  Although it may be smelly, manure is great for fertilizing plants because it is high in nitrogen, which plants need.  Recycle your vegetable matter and make a compost heap or get a wormery to make your own fertilizer.  Keep your dogs out of your compost heap because decaying vegetable matter can make them sick.

Ponds and Water Features


There is nothing nicer than having a pond or water feature in your garden.  It attracts birds and wildlife and is relaxing to look at and listen to.  Dogs and cats are also attracted to them to drink from or to swim in.  Pets can fall into ponds or water features and depending on the style, be unable to get out.  They can drown.  If your pet falls into your pond in the cooler months, it can get hypothermia.  I have a pond, but it is in a separate area of the garden so the dogs do not have access to it.  Always supervise your pets around water features and ponds to avoid disaster.

I hope that you follow my advice and enjoy the summer outside with your pets safely!

A Dog For Max - Please Share This Blog

I just received an email from my cousin, Pamela, in Florida asking me for help. I am extending this plea to all of you around the globe.  Her son, Max, has a rare disease called Ataxia Telangiectasia.  I have attached a description of his disease below.

We are looking for someone to donate a large or giant breed puppy to be trained as an assistance dog to help Max.  There is an organization that will train the puppy for free as an assistance dog.  A few days ago, the puppy that was donated for Max was diagnosed with a leg deformity, so he is not suitable to help Max.  As you can imagine, everyone is upset about this setback, and Max is heartbroken because he had already met and fallen in love with the puppy.  Assistance dogs give people with disabilities a great sense of security and freedom.

Max is 21 years old, 5'10" tall and 125 pounds.  He is very independent and lives on his own.  He gets around on a motorized wheelchair.  When Max walks, he is very unstable and has a tendency to fall, so the dog will have to be big enough to support his weight to help him get up.

I would really appreciate it if you could pass this around to as many people as possible, and hopefully someone has a puppy that they would be willing to donate to be trained as an assistance dog for Max.  If you are interested in knowing more or have a puppy that you are able to donate, please contact my cousin, Pamela Stitzer at adogformax@gmail.com


Description of Max's condition:

Ataxia telangiectasia (A-T) (Boder-Sedgwick syndrome^[1] or Louis–Bar syndrome^[2]:555) is a rare, neurodegenerative, inherited disease that affects many parts of the body and causes severe disability. Ataxia refers to poor coordination and telangiectasia to small dilated blood vessels, both of which are hallmarks of the disease.
A-T affects the cerebellum (the body's motor coordination control center) and also weakens the immune system in about 70% of the cases, leading to respiratory disorders and increased risk of cancer. It first appears in early childhood (the toddler stage) with symptoms such as lack of balance, slurred speech, and increased infections. Because all children at this age take time to develop good walking skills, coherent speech, and an effective immune system, it may be some years before A-T is properly diagnosed.
AT is caused by a defect in the ATM gene, which is responsible for recognizing and correcting errors in duplicating DNA when cells divide, and in destroying the cells when the errors can't be corrected. The protein normally repairs double-stranded DNA breaks

Ataxia-telangiectasia like disorder (ATLD) is an extremely rare condition that could be considered in the differential diagnosis of A-T. ATLD patients are very similar to A-T patients in showing a progressive cerebellar ataxia, hypersensitivity to ionising radiation and genomic instability.

Grooming

Now that the weather is getting warmer, we have been inundated with calls for grooming, both cats and dogs.  Grooming is an important part of your pet's health, and should be done on a daily to weekly basis.  Grooming also helps you and your pet to bond with each other.

As many of you know, these are my dogs.  They require a lot of grooming.  The two dogs on the right require more brushing than the two on the left because they are a non-shed breed.  Non-shed breeds such as poodles and Bichon frises and crosses with them are becoming increasingly popular.  What people don't realize is that these breeds and their crosses require daily brushing and a visit to the grooming parlor every 4 to 6 weeks to keep their coats in good condition.

What is the benefit of brushing?  Brushing removes the dead hair and dirt.  It also prevents matting.  Dogs that are brushed regularly also have shinier coats because brushing will stimulate the blood supply to the skin and help spread the oils produced by the skin onto the coat.

Too often, dog groomers are presented with dogs that are never brushed, brushed only occasionally, or brushed incorrectly.  The coat will be very matted close to the skin, even if the top of the coat looks fine. Dogs in this condition have to be shaved down.  Dogs with a lot of mattes are also prone to skin and parasitic infections because the mattes create a warm, moist environment for bacteria to proliferate.  Mattes also make it very difficult for owners to see fleas and ticks.  Sometimes dogs with coats in poor condition can even get lice (not the same as human lice).  To brush out mattes can be extremely painful and can cause bruising of the skin as the hair is pulled.  This can be more distressing to the dog than owners realize.

When your dog is brought to the grooming parlor the coat is brushed, clipped, styled, and washed.  The nails are clipped and the ears are plucked (if needed) and cleaned.  Your groomer can advise you as to which brushes or combs are most suitable for your dog's coat.  Have your groomer show you how to use them correctly, to help prevent mattes and to keep the coat in good condition.

From Puppies to Pyometra

The past few weeks have been very busy for me.  I have seen a wide variety of problems in dogs that relate to the reproductive tract.  I don't even know where to start!

When a female is not spayed, she is prone to a number of problems.  The main problem is unplanned pregnancy.  Pregnancy can be dangerous if the female is a small breed and the male is a large breed, or if the female is old.  I often have to see females for what is politely termed 'mismating', i.e., she had a one-night stand with the local gigolo and is possibly pregnant.  To stop pregnancies, we give injections 24 hours apart to make the uterus unable to maintain the pregnancy.  This, however, is not the best solution for the problem because of possible side effects.

Only last week, I had to perform a Caesarean section on a 9-year-old Labrador cross that met up with a husky in a dark alley.  She had one puppy on her own, then stopped having contractions.  Luckily, I was able to deliver seven more very large, healthy puppies.  This was her second litter, and it will hopefully be her last.

Then, the following day, we saw a 78-kg St. Bernard that had just had one very large puppy (2 kg).  I had to x-ray her to see if she had any more puppies, but she didn't.  That is a small litter for such a big dog!

Another case that I had to operate on was a Bernese mountain dog suffering from a pyometra, which is an infection of the uterus.  These infections can be life threatening.  A pyometra can occur in females of any age, but is more commonly seen in older dogs a few weeks after they have been in heat.  When a female is in heat, the enlarged cervical opening allows bacteria to invade the uterus, which provides the warm, moist environment that promotes bacterial growth.  The result is an infection and the formation of pus, which can drain only if the cervix remains open.  Some of the symptoms of a pyometra are loss of appetite, vomiting, increased thirst and urination, weight loss, and depression.  Blood work may show an elevated white blood cell count and dehydration.  The best treatment for a pyometra consists of fluids, antibiotics, and spaying.

The best solution to all of these problems is to spay and neuter dogs.  Not only does the procedure prevent unwanted puppies, but it also prevents pyometra and greatly reduces the incidence of mammary tumours.

Dog Shows

Last weekend, I went to Crufts, the largest dog show in the world.  I was there to show my Portuguese Water Dog, Harvey.  After a lot of preparation, and a long car and ferry journey, we had a successful trip because Harvey placed in the 'very highly commended' category.  That's my boy!

If you are a dog lover, you should go to Crufts at least once.  There are thousands of dogs -- besides show dogs, there are assistance dogs, dogs trained to do agility, fly ball, obedience, and heel work to music, and much more.  There are also breeds at Crufts that I haven't even heard of before!!

What is involved in showing a dog?  You can get an idea of the process by going to a few dog shows. If you still think you're interested, you need to register your dog with the kennel club.  Then, depending on the breed, you need to learn how to groom it properly.  You also should go to ring craft classes to learn how to properly handle and move your dog in the show ring, where the judge looks at the overall conformation of the dogs to see which ones are good examples of the breed standard.  The judge will also study how the dogs move.  The judge will then award the dog that he/she thinks is the best example of the breed.

Within each breed, there are different classes for males and females. The best male and best female then compete for best of breed.  If your dog wins best of breed, it goes to group judging.  Within its group, your dog will compete against other breeds.  If your dog wins the group, then both of you make it to the best in show ring.  Winning Best in Show is every competitor's dream.  It is easy to forget that while you think that your dog is perfect, you are paying for the opinion of an expert judge.  Regardless of that opinion, you always go home with the best dog of the show!

Here's How We Do It
Preparing for a show takes a lot of work.  First I have to clip Harvey's hind quarters and muzzle.

Then I wash and brush him.  Guess which is Harvey and which is the hair of the dog?

This is what he looks like when I am finished.  I know, it looks like I am half finished.

Brushing, brushing, and more brushing!  His hind quarters have to be scissored in order to shape them properly.  This coat requires a lot of maintenance.  

Finally, after more brushing, lots of traveling, and even more brushing, it's show time.

Here we are in the show ring waiting to be judged. (I'm wearing my lucky red suit.)

Harvey with Declan and me showing off our award from our class

Congratulations, Harvey!

Feline Leukaemia Virus

Did you know that Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) infection is responsible for more deaths among cats than any other infectious disease? The virus affects domestic cats and occurs in some wild felines as well.  A cat can be infected with the virus for years before it starts to show any signs of illness. 

There are three main types of FeLV.  A cat can be infected with one, two, or all three types.  The most predominant type causes a severe weakening of the immune system (immunosuppression).  The second most common type causes tumors and abnormal tissue growth.  The least common form causes severe anaemia.  FeLV can also cause reproductive, gastrointesintal, or neurological problems.  The signs of infection are variable because FeLV affects many body systems.  However, cats will usually lose their appetite, lose weight, and become weak.


FeLV is spread from cat to cat in saliva and other secretions, such as tears, urine, and faeces.  It can also be passed from a pregnant female to the unborn kittens.  The most common modes of transmission are through bites, nose-to-nose contact, mutual grooming, and shared dishes.  After the initial infection, the virus replicates in the tonsils and lymph nodes in the head region. Then it spreads via the bloodstream to other parts of the body, especially the lymph nodes, bone marrow, and intestinal tissue, where it continues to replicate.  The presence of the virus in the blood usually shows up 2 to 4 weeks after the initial infection.
 
FeLV infection is diagnosed by a simple blood test that is carried out by your veterinary surgeon.  It takes about 10 minutes to get a result.

How can you prevent your cat from getting FeLV?  There is a vaccine available that can be given at the same time as your cats’ yearly cat flu and enteritis injection.  Your cat should be tested for FeLV first before the vaccine is given for the first time.  You should also limit exposure to feral cats, which means keeping your cat indoors.

Ear Problems

People frequently tell me that their pets have selective hearing.  Mine definitely do!  They don't hear you call them, but they come running if they hear something drop, the rattle of food in the dish, or a package being opened.  Dogs and cats possess an acute sense of hearing, but how do you know if your pet has a problem with its ears?

Quite often ear problems are easy to spot.  You should look into your pet's ears on a regular basis, at least once a week.  The ear canal is lined with skin which should be pale pink in color and smooth in texture.  There shouldn't be any odor coming from the ear and there should be virtually no ear wax visible.  When a bacterial or parasitic infection is present, the skin around and in the ear canal may be red and look inflamed or rough.  There may or may not be a lot of yellow, black or brown ear wax present.  Sometimes pus will drain from the ear canal, or you may notice ulcers on the skin of the ear.  If your pet has chronic ear problems, the skin will have a leather-like appearance and become pigmented.  Usually your pet will alert you to the problem by repeatedly shaking its head, scratching at its ears, or will even tilting its head to one side (as if you just asked it a question).  More often than not, there will be an odor coming from the ear.  Your pet will be quieter than normal because it is uncomfortable.  If you've ever had an ear infection, you'll know just how uncomfortable your pet can be.

How do ear infections occur?  The ear canal is the perfect breeding ground for yeast, bacteria, and parasites because it is a warm, dark, moist environment.  And when any of those are present, the body responds by producing wax to help flush them out. I tend to see ear infections more frequently in dogs with hairy or floppy ears or a lot of skin around their face because air flow through the ear canal is reduced. Some breeds are predisposed to ear problems, such as Westies, St. Bernards, Labradors, Shih Tzus, and Cocker Spaniels. Dogs that swim also have a tendency to develop ear infections.  Recurrent ear infections can also be a sign of allergies. 

Ear infections of the external ear canal can lead to hearing loss if left untreated.  The infection can extend into the middle and internal ear.  If this happens, your pet will not only have a head tilt, but may walk in circles and lose its balance.  Ear infections can also cause hearing loss due to excess wax or inflamed skin physically closing off the ear canal.

In addition to looking into your pet's ears regularly, you can help to reduce the incidence of ear infections by cleaning the ears anywhere from once a week to once a month using a pet ear cleaner.  Do not use cotton buds deep in the ear canal.  Instead, put some cotton wool on your finger and wipe away any debris.  You can, however, use a cotton bud to clean the debris that you can see.   Clipping the hair around the ear, or plucking hair that is actually growing in the ear canal, will also help by increasing air flow within the ear canal.  If you have a dog that swims, be sure to wipe the ear with cotton wool to help absorb excess moisture afterwards.

If you think that your pet has an ear infection, bring it to your vet, who will treat it appropriately.  With recurrent ear infections, your vet will take an ear swab that will be sent to a lab to see what organisms grow and what antibiotics they are sensitive to.  Allergy testing can also be performed.  Occasionally, pets with chronic ear problems require surgery.  

My dog ate.....

"My dog ate my homework!"  was a great excuse when you were in school and didn't have an assignment done.  The truth is that dogs will eat just about anything!  I have removed countless objects (or foreign bodies) from the canine digestive tract.  These objects include underwear (swallowed whole), bottle caps, balls, corn cobs, bones, more bones, toys, towels, whole potatoes, rocks, a string of popcorn (needle still attached), and there are many more!  In addition to unusual objects, dogs will eat medications, plants, and virtually any type of food (including chili peppers).  Plants and foods that dogs should not eat are blogs in themselves!

The chewing and swallowing phase begins very early on in the development of your dog.  Some dogs never grow out of this.  What happens if your dog eats something that it shouldn't?  Quite often the object will pass out of the front or back end, sometimes with great difficulty!  If your dog eats medication, rat poison, or anything else that is potentially toxic, you must induce vomiting immediately and contact your vet.  If your dog eats something solid, such as jewelry, bones, socks, and rocks, the best thing to do is wait for it to pass through.

If your dog starts vomiting or is constipated, the object has probably lodged in the digestive tract, causing an obstruction.  Some dogs will get a partial obstruction, which allows some food to pass through.  These dogs may vomit occasionally and defecate normally.  They may also lose weight.  Some dogs with foreign objects become very lethargic and have a painful abdomen.  Symptoms may take a few days to develop.  Regardless of what your dog has eaten, and whether or not it is showing signs of illness, you should always ring your vet!

Remember, a 2-euro toy, can turn into an 800-euro vet bill!!  To help prevent harm to your dog and your wallet, be sure to dog-proof your home and garden, and get pet insurance!

Smelly Dogs

A lot of owners complain that their dog smells.  Dogs do have a natural odor -- in fact, each  dog has a distinctive odor, which is how they distinguish one another.  Many owners try to mask the normal 'doggy smell' because they, or someone in the household, does not find it very appealing.  But sometimes a dog gives off a particularly unpleasant odor, which can have a number of causes.  On the least offensive end of the scale, your dog may give off the typical 'wet dog' smell when it comes in from the rain (and that is quite often in Ireland).  On the other end of the scale are the odors that come from rolling in dead things or droppings from other species of animals.  In some cases, though, your dog may have a problem that needs medical treatment.

You have to determine what part of the dog the smell is coming from.  As a vet, I don't find this a pleasant task!  Start smelling your dog starting at the head and mouth, then sniff your way towards the back end.  Don't worry, you don't have to get too close!

Bad breath, or halitosis, is very common, and sometimes it is so bad that you are reluctant to be in the same room with your faithful companion.  Bad breath can be caused by dental disease, a stick or bone stuck in the mouth, an abcess in the mouth, dermatitis around the mouth, or an oral tumor.  Internal problems can also cause bad breath.  A diabetic dog can actually smell like it had been out drinking all night.  There will be a distinct sweet, alcohol-like smell off of the dog's breath.  A dog with kidney disease or gastritis can also have very bad breath.

Ear infections can be very smelly, not to mention uncomfortable for the dog.  Signs of an ear infection are scratching the ears and shaking the head.  Some dogs may even tilt their head to the side.  You may notice that the ear canal is red and full of ear wax.

The largest organ of the body is the skin.  If your dog has a skin problem it will be smelly.  The skin and coat may be greasy to touch.  Your dog may also be itchy and shed excessively. Your vet can help you make your dog more comfortable -- and less odoriferous.

Everyone who owns a dog has been subject to flatulence, or gas.  Your dog may sit and look at you lovingly, then emit the most noxious odor that will make your eyes water.  If your dog has a problem with flatulence, it could indicate a dietary or intestinal problem.

The anal sacs or glands can also create a room-clearing smell.  These paired sacs are hidden away just inside the anal sphincter and contain a foul-smelling, oily secretion.  This secretion is normally released when the dog has a bowel movement or is frightened.  The anal sacs are what give each dog their individual scent, and are the reason dogs sniff each other's behinds first when they greet each other.  Unfortunately, these glands frequently cause problems because they are not always emptied when the dog defecates.  If your dog has a problem with its glands, it may 'scoot,' or drag its bottom along the floor.  It may also lick its rear end more often than normal, which, in turn, gives bad breath.

If you are unable to get rid of that 'doggy smell,' it may be time to bring your dog to the vet to find the cause of the odor.

Rabbits Need Dental Care Too!

Did you know that a rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout its life?  The front teeth are aligned so that all of the teeth are worn down as the rabbit chews.  The chisel-shaped incisors cut food into short pieces, while the flat surface of the molars grind it into pieces fine enough to be swallowed.   

One common problem that we see in rabbits is overgrown teeth, a condition caused by misalignment of the upper and lower jaw, inadequate fiber in the diet, or old age. 

If your rabbit has a tooth problem, you may notice one or more of the following:

• Weight loss
• Runny eyes
• Drooling and wet chin
• Inability or refusal to eat
• Bad breath
• Face rubbing
• Tooth grinding

When a rabbit has a misalignment, the incisors grow into 'tusks' that will either protrude from the mouth or curl back into the mouth.  The rabbit will have great difficulty eating and grooming.  Some vets will clip or file the teeth regularly, but this can be stressful to the rabbit if done while the rabbit is conscious.  Clipping the teeth can also cause micro-fractures that travel down the tooth below the gum line and can lead to bacterial infection.  The better choice is to give the rabbit a general anaesthetic and remove the incisors completely.  The rabbit will still be able to grasp food with its lips and tongue and grind food with its molars.  You will have to chop up fresh food into small pieces, but you can feed hay and pellets as normal.

Another problem that rabbits encounter are molar spurs.  Molar spurs can occur in any rabbit (with or without malocclusion of the incisors).  They form when uneven wear leaves sharp points on the molars, which cut the tongue and cheeks.  The spurs are very painful and the rabbit will stop eating.  Lack of food intake can in turn lead to a life-threatening condition in which the intestines stop working.  To remove molar spurs, the rabbit will need a general anaesthetic so that the teeth can be filed down.  This procedure will have to be repeated every few months.

What can you do to help to keep your rabbit's teeth in good shape?  Take your rabbit to the vet every 12 months for a health and weight check.  Offer a varied diet, such as pellets, vegetables, unlimited hay, and fresh grass.  Avoid pellet-only and meusli-type diets because rabbits will just pick out the bits that they like and leave the rest, thus predisposing it to tooth and intestinal problems.  You should also provide your rabbit with branches and twigs to chew on.  Apple, willow, and maple branches are safe to use, but they have to be dried for 3 months before you give them to your rabbit.  Old telephone books and cardboard are also fun for a rabbit to shred.

Hairballs

A problem that we frequently encounter in cats is hairballs.  You may find these where you least expect them, like in your shoe, on your couch, or anywhere else your cat decides to deposit them.  When you come across them, it isn't pleasant! 

A hairball, or trichobezoar, is a compacted mass of hair in the digestive tract.  When a cat cleans itself, it usually ingests the loose hair.  Hair is not digestible, so it passes unchanged through the digestive tract and comes out in the faeces.  However, in some cats, the hair collects in the stomach or small intestine, causing irritation of the stomach lining.  Sometimes, the hair can even cause an intestinal blockage.  Hairballs can occur in both long and short-haired cats.

 When your cat is trying to vomit up a hairball, it will make an awful hacking noise similar to a cough.  The hairball may or may not come up with the vomit. Your cat may do this regularly until the hairball is expelled.  If your cat is coughing and does not bring anything up, it may have another problem, such as feline asthma. That calls for a visit to your vet, as does hairball expulsion that occurs more than once or twice a month.

You can help your cat reduce the amount of hair it ingests with daily brushing.  It is important to use the correct type of brush.  Many brushes will just glide over the surface of the coat and do not remove the loose, dead hair.  A good brush to use is a Furminator, which removes a lot of the undercoat.  A fine-toothed comb or rubber glove are also good for grooming.  Some cats will also eat plants and grasses to make themselves vomit up a hairball.

You will be glad to know that you can treat your cat for hairballs by either increasing the fiber in the diet, or feeding your cat a lubricant.  Nowadays, there are many commercial diets that contain 'hairball control,' which is powdered cellulose or beet pulp to increase the fiber content.  When the fiber content is higher, the transit through the stomach and intestines is improved, causing the hair to be passed out in the faeces.  If you put your cat on a hairball diet, do it gradually, over 5 to 7 days, so as not to upset the stomach further.

Lubricants such as petroleum jelly and mineral oil can also help your cat eliminate hairballs.  Petroleum jelly is not absorbed by the intestine and passes through unchanged.   To use it, smear a glob of it onto the paws so that your cat will lick it off.  Do this daily for 1 to 2 weeks, then decrease to once or twice a week for maintenance.  You can also get hairball treats or paste.  These contain mineral oil, which acts like petroleum jelly.  But it also has a laxative effect, so don't go overboard with the treats!

Hydration also helps to keep hairballs to a minimum.  Make sure that your cat always has access to fresh water.  You can get a pet water fountain that not only filters the water, but also recirculates it.  Encouraging your cat to drink water will help to prevent urinary tract problems.

If you follow the simple steps as outlined above, you and your cat will benefit!

Is My Pet Senile?

Senility is a condition that affects people and animals alike.  Known as cognitive dysfunction syndrome in cats and dogs, it affects over 50 percent of dogs 10 years and older, and over 28 percent of cats 11 years and older.  Quite often, owners don't realize that there is a problem.  My beloved old dog, Bijoux, who is 14, has been showing signs of this disease for the past 4 months, so I thought that it would be helpful to share them with you.

Symptoms of cognitive dysfunction are similar to those of people with Alzheimer's disease:

• Change in sleep patterns - pacing and inability to sleep at night
• Confusion or disorientation - your dog may get trapped in corners, behind furniture, get lost in your own back yard, or stare into space.
• Urinating or defecating inappropriately in the house - even if your dog has just been outside, or your cat has an indoor litter tray
• Decreased activity levels
• Increased irritability
• Anxiety and apathy
• Increased vocalization
• Inability to respond to commands or do tricks

As you can see, the symptoms are vague, so it is important to keep a record of any abnormal behaviors that your pet is exhibiting.  Many other conditions can cause the symptoms listed above:  a urinary tract infection can cause inappropriate urination in the house; arthritis can lead to decreased activity levels and irritability; and deafness can make a pet unable to respond to commands.  To diagnose canine cognitive dysfunction, other diseases have to be ruled out through physical exam, urinalysis, blood work, and x-ray. 

Unfortunately we can't reverse the aging process, but medications can help to slow down the progression of cognitive dysfunction.  These medications are not licensed in cats, but have been used with some success.  There are also prescription diets available for both cats and dogs to help treat cognitive dysfunction.

Traveling With Your Pet

The Road Safety Authority's new campaign on road safety neglects one issue -- traveling safely with animals in the car.  It is important that you and your passengers buckle up, whether your passenger has 2 legs or 4 legs!  The proper safety measures can save both your life and your pet's.

When going on a car journey, regardless of how short it is, you must keep animals restrained.  This will prevent them from jumping onto the dashboard or out the window, or even sitting or standing in your lap while you are driving.  If you have a cat or small dog, the easiest mode of transport is a travel cage.  You can attach the cage to the seat belt for extra security.  For larger dogs, use a dog seat belt.  This is a harness that you can connect to the seat belt.  You can also use the harness for walking when you take you dog out of the car.  If your car is large enough, you can fit a large cage or divider to create a separate area for your dog.  We have had clients that have either been in car accidents or received a ticket for having an animal loose in the car.

Once your dog is safely in the car, lock the doors and turn on the child locks.  The same goes for automatic windows.  Dogs are curious creatures and may stand on the window button or on the door handle, thus opening the window or door.  As a vet, I have seen a number of dogs that have either jumped out an open window of a moving car, or been injured by flying debris after sticking its head out the window.  These are avoidable accidents.

Whenever you travel with your pet, no matter how short the journey, always make sure that you have a collar and ID tag on your pet.  Your should also get your pet microchipped, as this is a permanent form of identification implanted under the skin by a simple injection.  When a stray animal is brought to a vet, animal shelter, or dog pound, a scanner reads the microchip number.  This number is put into a database and your contact details can be retrieved to reunite you with your pet.  If your pet is already microchipped, please make sure that your contact details are correct.

Always travel with extra leads, collars, blankets, and water.  You never know when these can come in handy.  Also keep a supply of plastic bags, poop bags, and paper towels to clean up any messes inside and outside your car!  If going on a long journey, bring water with you.  There are non-spill water dishes available that are great for car trips.

Most importantly, NEVER leave your pet in the car.  Your pet can get hypothermia in cold temperatures and hyperthermia in average to hot temperatures.  Your car can become an icebox or an oven, even if the windows are open.

From Animals First Pet Safety Authority!

In an Emergency - Heimlich Maneuver and CPR

The other morning, I received a phone call from a very upset owner that her dog was choking on a piece of meat.  By the time she called me, the dog's tongue had started to turn blue.  I explained how to do the Heimlich maneuver on her dog, and within seconds the piece of meat came out.  Thankfully, the dog survived.

It is important to know basic first aid for pets as well as people.  Here is a description of how to do the Heimlich maneuver and CPR.  These may save your dog's life!  Print this out and e-mail it to friends so they too can become familiar with these procedures.

HEIMLICH MANEUVER

First make sure that your dog or cat is choking and not having breathing difficulties.  Both choking and breathing difficulties will cause the tongue to change color to a purple or bluish hue.  When an animal is choking, it tries to cough and paws at its face, and its eyes may bulge.  Remember a distressed animal can bite, so be very careful.  If the animal is trying to bite, wrap it in a blanket to protect yourself.  Have someone contact the vet immediately.  This is an emergency!

      1)  If you are able to, carefully open your dog's mouth by grasping the upper jaw, behind the canines, with one hand.  With your other hand, grasp the lower jaw to open the mouth.  Make sure to leave your forefinger free so that you can reach the obstruction.  When you open your dog's mouth, look into it first because you may be able to see the obstruction and pull it out with your finger.  Do not try to grab something that you can't see because dogs have small bones in their throats, and you can do damage trying to pull at their anatomy.

      2)  Gravity - Try lifting the hindquarters of the animal, which may be enough to dislodge the object.

      3)   Back blows - With the palm of your hand, give the animal 4 to 5 sharp blows between the shoulder blades.  Try having the hindquarters raised at the same time.  Gravity is a great friend!

      4)  If you have a small dog or cat, hold it to your chest with the legs facing away from you.   Lean forward so the the head is lower than the hindquarters.   Make a fist with one hand and and place your other hand over it.  Place your hands on the upper abdomen, directly below the rib cage.  Press in and up, using 3 to 5 thrusts.  Repeat this 2 to 3 times.  For larger dogs, try placing the hind legs on a step or a chair for this procedure.

      5)  Once the object is dislodged, remove it immediately so that your dog doesn't eat it again.

      6)  If you dog is not breathing, you will have to do CPR.

CPR

Like the Heimlich manuever, CPR is another lifesaving procedure that everyone should know.  If your pet is collapsed and not breathing, start CPR immediately and have someone contact your vet to tel them that you are on the way over with an emergency.  Time is of the essence.  If you know the ABCs of CPR, you may save your pet's life!

Your pet will probably be unconscious, so make sure that you lie your pet on its right side.

A is for airway - Establish on open airway by extending the head and pulling out the tongue.  Look into the mouth to make sure there are no foreign objects or debris in the mouth.  If there is anything there, clear it away immediately.

B is for breathing - Look, listen, and feel for breath.  Look at the chest to see if it is moving.  Feel for breath by placing your hand over the nose.  You can also pull some of your pet's hair and hold it over the nose.  If your pet is breathing, you will see the hair move.  Listen for breaths by putting your ear next to the animal's mouth.  If your dog is not breathing, start rescue breaths immediately.  Hold the mouth closed,  inhale and place your mouth over the nose, and exhale watching the animal's chest rise.  Allow the lungs to deflate before giving the next breath.  Give 5 breaths.

C is for circulation -  Check for a heartbeat or pulse before you begin chest compressions.  To check for a heartbeat, bend the animal's leg towards the body.  The point where the elbow meets the chest is where you can feel the heartbeat.  To feel for the pulse, place your three fingers in the middle of the thigh and slide them to the inside of the leg toward the groin.  There will be an indentation between the muscles.  This is where the femoral artery lies.  It can be difficult to find, so make sure that you are familiar with the location of this vein on your pet before there is an emergency.

If you do not feel a heart beat or pulse, begin chest compressions.  Bring the animal's elbow up to the chest to locate the position of the heart.  With your palm flat, place it over the area.  Place your other hand on top and interlock your fingers.  Straighten your arms and give 15 rapid compressions downward.  For small dogs and cats, you only want the compressions to go down about and inch or less.  For large dogs, the compressions should go down 2-3 inches.

After 15 compressions, give 1 rescue breath. Repeat this pattern until you see or feel signs of life.  You must check the animal every minute or every 4 cycles of compressions for a heartbeat or pulse.  You can do CPR for up to 20 minutes.

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Cold Weather Tips

In the cold winter months, there are a few things that we can do for our pets to keep them safe.

• Adequate Housing - If your pets have to stay outside, provide an insulated house that is elevated off the ground.  There should be a flap over the entrance to retain the heat within the house and keep out drafts.  You should line the house with straw, hay, or extra blankets for warmth.  Make sure the entrance of the house is sheltered to avoid cold winds.  Most importantly, do not get an oversized house.  Your pet's body heat warms the inside of the house, so if the house is too big, it can't be warmed efficiently.

• Diet - Pets that spend most of their time outside use more calories to stay warm.  It is important to increase the amount that you feed them to compensate for this.  But do the opposite for pets that live indoors.  Decrease the amount of food they get because they probably don't exercise as much in the winter months.

• Water bowls - Animals must have access to fresh water at all times.  Bowls left outside are likely to freeze.  Avoid using metal bowls outside because your pet's tongue can actually get stuck to the metal, which can be painful.  Use plastic or ceramic bowls.  In extreme temperatures, certain plastics and ceramic can crack, so monitor them closely.

• Frostbite -  It is important to bring outdoor dogs and cats inside when the temperature dips below -7 degrees Centigrade.  At these low temperatures, animals left outside can get frostbite on their ears, feet, and noses.  Very young and elderly animals should be treated with extra care because they are even more susceptible to the effects of low temperatures.

• Paw Care - Wipe or wash your pet's feet after a walk to remove any irritating salt and ice-melting chemicals.  A thorough cleaning will also prevent your pet from licking the salt or chemicals off their feet, which can cause an upset stomach.  If there is snow or ice between the pads, place the paws in lukewarm water to melt it.  Do not pull the snow or ice off the coat because it will be painful to your pet.

• Identification - As always, make sure that your dog or cat or cat has a collar with identification on it.  It is also good to get your pet microchipped because this is a permanent form of identification implanted under the skin.  If you pet is microchipped, check to make sure that your contact details are correct.

• Antifreeze - Antifreeze is sweet tasting and deadly to dogs and cats.  If you use antifreeze, be very careful to clean up any spills immediately.  Do not allow your pets to lick driveways or roadways in case there is antifreeze on them.  If your pet has ingested antifreeze, contact your veterinary surgeon immediately because this is a true emergency.

• Cars - Vehicles can be dangerous in two different ways:

1. Cats - Frequently, cats like to crawl under the bonnet (or hood) of the car to get warm from the heat of the engine.  Before you start your car, beep your horn or make of lot of noise to scare cats out.  Cats can get severely injured and your car can get damaged if they don't exit before you start your car.
2. Hypothermia - Pets left in cars in the winter can suffer from hypothermia. Take them indoors with you.

• Fireplaces and stoves - Put protective screens around fireplaces and stoves to prevent your pet from getting burned.

My Dog's New Year's Resolutions

I will sleep on the couch when my owners are not around.

I will stop rolling in dead things.

I will not eat the other dog's vomit.

I will not eat poop of any description.

I will stop jumping onto the counter to steal food.

I will stop crawling into the dishwasher to lick the plates.

I will stop tormenting the cat.

I will not eat the cat's food.

I will not eat the other dogs' food.

I will stop ripping the green fluff off tennis balls.

I will start coming when I am called.

I won't take a drink and then rest my wet beard on my owner's lap.

I will not bite the vet or the postman.

I will stop pressing my nose against windows and leaving smudge marks.

I will start to pee outside and not on the walls.

I will stop humping my teddy bears and other dogs.

I will stop eating tissues and pooping them out whole.

I will try not to look sad when my owners eat steak and I don't get any.

I will not swim in my water dish or the fish pond.

I will wipe my muddy feet before I come into the house.

I won't fart and act like it was someone else.

I will still love my owners unconditionally even when they dress me up for Halloween and Christmas or in silly little jumpers that match their clothes.

I will start chewing on my toys and not my owners' arms.

I will look cute...  hey, I always look cute!